Thursday, March 20, 2014

Hemmerle

Post by Christine Webb


Hemmerle!  Just look at this jewelry - you almost don't need to read anything about this amazing design house - really - just LOOK!  Hemmerle creations are so unique - all of the pieces are one-of-a-kind art jewels. Hemmerle is unlike any other jewelry design house.

It's very difficult to have a favorite piece of Hemmerle jewelry.  However, I gasped when I saw these earrings.  The intense blue sapphires against the vivid green patinated copper - and then the exquisite design - love love love these earrings! Beyond compare.

 Sapphires, patinated copper, white gold and silver
Christine's Gem to Remember

A fourth generation family run business that began in 1893, today Stefan and Sylveli Hemmerle run the business with their son, Christian, and daughter-in-law, Yasmin. The Hemmerle boutique is located in Munich, Germany and the handmade pieces are fabricated by 20 artists in a workshop a few blocks away. Hemmerle has long been revered in Germany as one of the country's premier contemporary jewelry designers. To quote from their website: Hemmerle is renowned for its dedication to craftsmanship, exceptional quality, innovative material combinations, and bold unostentatious creations.

These are a close second for my favorite Gem to Remember - the gems, the design, the blues - undeniably fabulous.
Aquamarine briolettes, blue opals, sapphires and gold 


When Stefan and Sylveli took control of the business, they developed modern jewelry that was architectural with artistic form while honoring the family heritage of craftsmanship and tradition.  When a client commissioned a piece of jewelry that wasn't a "flashy gem" that incorporated her fondness for Berlin iron jewelry, Stephan created a diamond ring in textured iron. This request inspired him to set-off in a direction that would turn into a new design style for the company - utilizing various metals, natural materials and gemstones. Incorporating copper, iron, brass and wood alongside rare gems creates the most beautiful unexpected combinations.

Powerful simplicity: spessartite garnets, copper, white gold and dinosaur bone

Barrier-breaking design!  The combinations of hues of pinks in these spectacular earrings are astonishing. I am left speechless.

Pink sapphires, rubellite tourmalines, silver and white gold

Statement earrings: spessartite garnets, black onyx, copper and white gold


Earrings inspired by an Egyptian lotus flower: bold splendor - aquamarines, blue sapphires,
 white gold, silver and copper



Stefan has been influenced by several periods throughout art history - one of them is the Bauhaus period, 1919-1933.  This movement began when Walter Gropius founded a school with a vision to bridge art and industry by combining architecture, sculpture and painting.  In the next three pairs of earrings you can see the influence of this period - the use of geometric forms, simple lines, and the contrast of the metals and gems - from the bold black iron to the luster of the diamonds.  

Reminds me of a garden gate: diamonds, iron and white gold

Imagine the brilliance and dispersion of these brown diamonds in copper and white gold.

These earrings are Empress worthy!  Jade, tsavorite garnets, silver and white gold.

Making such a powerful statement - I think I could do battle in these earrings! 

Sapphires, aquamarines, silver, iron and white gold.

These feminine yet statement earrings are a rare treasure - pink conch pearls and sparkling pink spinels in copper - PERFECTION. 

Conch pearls, spinels, white gold and copper 

I've always loved "mismatched" earrings that incorporate different colors - in this case black and white. Notice how the round brilliant cut diamonds in the tops of the earrings are set "table down" or "culet up" - sometimes referred to as reverse set, where the pavilion or bottom of the gem is showing.  Elegant, sophisticated, extraordinary.

Diamonds, black & white cultured pearls, silver and white gold

Now these are once in a lifetime diamond earrings - rich earth tones in matte copper - stunning!

Fancy colored diamonds, rose gold and patinated copper

Drop dead gorgeous - the royal color of purple amethyst and the violet shades of sapphires.  Again notice the reverse set sapphires in the tops of the earrings, providing interest and a twist.

Appropriately called the Hedgehog Earrings: amethysts, purple sapphires,
white gold and copper

Earrings combining the sister stones of green beryl and pink beryl (morganite) as well as the coordinating copper patinas - BRILLIANT!

Green beryl, morganite, white gold and copper

I adore these earrings - truly fit for a queen! However, I would wear these with jeans or to a fabulous black-tie event. The cameos are incredible - look at the detail and precision of the carving!

Diamonds, cameo, white gold, copper and brass

Juicy reds and pinks - tourmalines, pink sapphires, white gold and copper

Magnificent tassel earrings of natural pearls, diamonds, white gold and copper.

A statement ring - an outstanding tourmaline accented with pink sapphires in pink gold and copper.

Alluring - a ring of blue sapphires, white gold and silver.

An exceptional Burmese sapphire ring (natural, no-heat gem) - say no more! It is rare beyond belief - quite frankly, other worldly.
Sapphire, gold and iron

I love the cut and shape of this diamond: diamonds, white gold and silver ring.


A vibrant pink spinel set in a ring of copper and pink gold.

Masterful ring of diamonds, silver and white gold.


Hemmerle pushes the boundaries of traditional jewelry design by using bold combinations of metals, woods,  precious gems and pearls.  

A creative and colorful brooch of amethysts, sapphires, white gold, silver and wood.

Nature inspired starfish brooch - the colors of the sea: sapphires, white gold and silver.

Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle surprised Stefan with a vegetable-inspired collection of jewelry in 2011. The Vegetable Collection, inspired from nature, is a collection of 3-dimensional representations of garden vegetables.  They also published a book, Delicious Jewels, that introduces the jewels along with recipes by celebrated food writer and author Tamasin Day-Lewis.  By utilizing dramatic colors of gems and patinated metals, Hemmerle created designs that look good enough to eat!


Corn Cobb: Oriental pearls, diamonds, silver, yellow and white gold

Look at the leaves!  Cabbage: diamonds, silver and white gold

Peapod: demantoid garnets, jade, copper and gold

Carrots: orange sapphires, copper and white gold

Quintessential Hemmerle - the use of a spectacular large aquamarine gem set in a bold copper cuff bracelet.  The combination of the green patina and the sea blue gem is spectacular! Refined and strikingly simple.
 Aquamarine, white gold and copper

The use of wood to form the bracelet accented with varying shades of green tsavorite garnets and turquoise - daring combinations of material and color!

Tsavorite garnets, turquoise, silver, white gold and wood

How do you make the cameo look updated and fresh?!  Set it in a bracelet of smoky quartz beads accented with brown diamonds.  Really, have you ever seen anything so incredible - talk about a treasure.
Diamonds, cameo, smoky quartz and white gold

Hemmerle continues to blaze a trail, designing powerful jewelry that is timeless and modern as well as combining simplicity and sophistication.

Case in point - another breathtaking cuff bracelet: aquamarine, iron and white gold.

What a green dream - the mixing of green sapphires and diopsides in varying shades - to wrap around your wrist.  Lovely indeed.

 Sapphires, diopsides, white gold and silver
This bracelet is truly a testament to the beauty found in nature.  Would you ever think about combining copper and walrus teeth to create a fabulous piece of jewelry?

Diamonds, walrus teeth, white gold, copper

One of my favorite necklaces, and Patricia's Gem To Remember - the color is so rich and intense - the deep wine-colored tourmalines setting off the shades of pink sapphires - and then those rare conch pearls dripping at the ends of the tassel.  Intriguing precious stones - simply remarkable! Patricia also feels this necklace combines all that is interesting about fine jewelry - the fabulous cut of the center gemstone, the intricate pavé work, the rarity of the deep pink conch pearls, and the design itself.  Amazing beauty and timelessness in one piece!

Tourmaline and sapphire necklace with conch pearls
Patricia's Gem To Remember


Again the use of cameos, both carved in gems and gold create the feel of antiquity with a modern twist.  This necklace will never go out of style.

Carved cameo necklace with carved gold plaques

Luminescent peachy brown moonstones in beaded oval links connected by square-shaped cabochons in gold links.  Understated elegance.

Moonstone and gold necklace

The beading on this necklace is masterful - the shades of turquoise just beautiful. Amazing artistry with the chunk of gemmy aquamarine set in copper and then a lovely tassel to add movement.  

Aquamarine, turquoise with white gold and copper

And last - but not least to mention - Hemmerle just released a limited edition book of jewels and poetry, Nature's Jewels, to accompany their new collection of woodland and exotic-fruit inspired pieces.  Please see the blog post by Jewels du Jour for the details on the recent unveiling of this collection.  
Arbutus brooch - sapphires and copper

We hope you've had a little taste of Hemmerle and that you've fallen in love!  To learn more about Hemmerle, the jewelry house, the vision, the history - please visit their website: www.hemmerle.com

All images and information courtesy of Hemmerle, W Magazine, Jewels du Jour, 1stdibs.com and 21st Century Jewellery Designers an Inspired Style by Juliet Weir-de La Rochefoucauld.

3 comments:

  1. What an amazing sense of design and color- a real inspiration! I love this blog. Thank you for introducing me to a jewelry house that would have been missed by my jewelry radar!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks so much for your kind words, isn't Hemmerle amazing! Please feel free to share our blog with your friends!

      Delete
    2. Thanks Sara! Hope you have the chance to check out some of the other postings - I think you'll find a few other designers that you might not know about.
      Chris

      Delete